By Daniel Delis Hill
This lavishly illustrated chronicle of yank women’s models examines relationships among the mass-market ready-to-wear undefined, model journalism, and type ads. through the 20th century, those industries fueled one another’s successes by means of deciding on an ever-widening shopper category and fanning the will to be trendy. Daniel Hill employs a wealth of fundamental resource fabric to rfile not just this symbiosis but in addition an evolution in American type, society, and tradition, as evidenced by means of greater than 600 model advertisements that seemed fashionable from the magazine’s debut in 1893 during the subsequent ten many years. those American vignettes rfile greater than the appearance and models in their eras; they display dramatic ameliorations in women’s roles and self-image—witness the metamorphosis from alabaster Victorian homemaker to painted flapper in precisely a new release, from conformist fifties mother to miniskirt-clad iconoclast just a decade later. during this accomplished learn, Hill bargains a fathomless trove for style historians and pop-culturists, a useful source for college students and execs in ads, advertising, and company background, and a distinct segment point of view on cultural affects for women’s reviews.
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Extra resources for As Seen in Vogue: A Century of American Fashion in Advertising
Direct mail programs effectively segmented customers by their purchasing habits. Newspaper advertising schedules conditioned customers to shop certain days of the week for —41— — A S S E E N I N V O G U E — specific categories of merchandise: Mondays, women’s readyto-wear; Tuesdays, household furnishings; Wednesdays, dry goods and piece goods; Thursdays, general merchandise; Fridays, men’s goods. 20 As a result of these refined marketing strategies, department stores and apparel retailers began to follow the lead of the catalogers and included a stronger presence of ready-made clothing in their inventories.
Immigration virtually ceased, so an important source of cheap labor dried up. Manufacturers had to pay —28— ever-higher wages as the demand for export goods rapidly increased. Unskilled workers left their positions as servants and laborers to join factory assembly lines. An enormous population of African Americans from the South migrated north into the vacuum of the labor shortage. In Paris, the fashion industry was impacted immediately. Some couturiers, such as Paul Poiret, Edward Molyneux, and Jacques Worth, left their salons to join the military.
As a result, raw materials for manufacturing had to be rechanneled or warehoused. Exports were still limited due to bankrupted European economies. Unemployment rose and wage levels dropped. Soon, though, consumer spending began to fuel a recovery. Soldiers returning from military duty were eager to doff uniforms for civvies. The sacrifices and privations endured by the home-front populace were relieved by an indulgence of consumption. Americans began restocking, repairing, or replacing the old with everything new: new cars, new home improvements, new appliances, new personal care products, and new fashions.
As Seen in Vogue: A Century of American Fashion in Advertising by Daniel Delis Hill