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A Scientist at the Seashore (Dover Science Books) - download pdf or read online

By James S. Trefil

ISBN-10: 048644564X

ISBN-13: 9780486445649

A famous physicist and well known technology author heads for the seashore to respond to universal and unusual questions on the ocean: why the ocean is salty, how bubbles shape at the water's floor, the place waves come from, and different curiosities of the marine world. 90 figures. 20 halftones. 1987 variation.

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Pluto's average distance from the sun is about forty times that of the earth, while the average distance of Uranus is about twenty. If Pluto is really as small as these measurements indicate, then the gravitational force exerted on Uranus by Pluto will be less than that exerted on Uranus by the moon! In other words, if there is really an unexplained perturbation in the motion of Uranus, Pluto will not make things right. The scientific consensus today is that if one does a careful analysis of the errors involved in the old measurements of the orbit of Neptune, there is no deviation to be explained.

What forces are acting in this situation, and with what effect? Two forces are in fact acting on every bit of water: the earth's gravity, which pulls the water downward; and the pressure of the water itself, a force representing the effect of collisions between water molecules. For a stretch of water at the surface, the effect of T II I, II I I I 66 / A SCI E NTIS TAT THE SEA S H 0 R E ~----------M A KIN G W A V E S pressure is an upward force, a force we sometimes call buoyancy. In a completely undisturbed system, these two forces-one upward and one downward-balance each other exactly, producing a smooth, even surface.

The Direction of the Surf I I! Let us begin with the first question. Why does surf usually come straight in to shore, even though the winds that start the waves moving blow in random directions? You might think that the waves generated by storm winds should approach the beach in random directions, so that the direction of their approach today would depend on the direction the wind blew somewhere out at sea a few days ago. That this is not the case results from the character of the deep water wave we discussed in chapter 6.

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A Scientist at the Seashore (Dover Science Books) by James S. Trefil


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